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MHTN.

Haute Couture Week FW24

Monday the 24th 

Christian Dior

The collection showcased modern fashion and sporty influences, from racerback bodices and square-neck dresses inspired by ’90s minimalism to signature metallic goddess gowns. Imaginative designs included a Nike-inspired bodysuit adorned with thousands of gold feathers, crystalline tank tops paired with chiffon dresses, and a caped black party dress with leather straps resembling horsewhip handles. Set against a backdrop of mosaics depicting Olympic athletes as ancient warriors—a nod to the upcoming Paris Olympics—the show emphasized a sporty aesthetic with all-white outfits featuring luxurious draping, belts, gladiator sandals, and sparkling tank tops. The use of jersey material crafted to look like shiny metal mesh and pleats inspired by sports uniforms brought a sense of movement and breathability to the collection. Flowing metallic dresses, gilded feathers, and sequined bodysuits added a shimmering, elegant touch to the overall theme.

Thom Browne

Thom Browne’s Fall 2024 Couture show, mostly in white and cream, used muslin fabric to create a collection inspired by the upcoming Paris Olympics. The show opened with male models in pleated skirts and blazers playing a mock tug-of-war, followed by a model in a sequin floor-length jacket, gold halo crown, and whistle-shaped bag, symbolizing a referee or a gold medal. The collection featured wedding gown-like dresses, some with ruffled ridges or cocoon-like coats, and deconstructed suits that blurred the lines between traditional and radical shapes. Sporty elements like shorts, pleated tennis skirts, and lace-up track heels mixed with dramatic gowns, while embroidered Grecian figures depicted Olympic athletes. The final looks included metallic blazers in bronze, silver, and gold, representing the medals of the couture Olympics.

Tuesday the 25th 

Chanel

The collection, inspired by the opera house, opened with a dramatic full-length opera cape with a ruffled collar, followed by glamorous Chanel tweed suits adorned with glitter, pearls, and jeweled camellias. A standout black feathered cape with gold flecks added drama, while models wore large black bows, with the Chanel bride in a white version. She closed the show in an oversized white dress with puff sleeves, a jeweled bodice, and a tulle trail, paying tribute to ballerinas.

The collection featured rich materials like feathers, tassels, embroidered flowers, velvet, tweeds, tulle, taffeta, and satin with airy volumes, puffed sleeves, and pleated flounces adding movement. Highlights included a burgundy tweed Chanel suit with white satin trim, a black corduroy tuxedo paired with a white blouse, and a dramatic black suit with feathered shoulders. The collection also featured long coats, voluminous capes, and evening gowns, evoking grandeur and pageantry. The color palette, features shades of black, gold, silver, ivory, fuchsia, pale pink, and celadon, reflecting the opulence of the Palais Garnier. Matte, glossy, and lacquered finishes played with light, enhancing the beauty of the garments.

Giorgio Armani Privé

Armani’s latest collection, featuring 89 looks to match his age, transformed the concept of pearls into wearable art, blending luxury with subtlety and offering a modern take on the old Hollywood glamour he’s known for. The collection showcased jet-black velvet against bright white backgrounds, with sheer pieces adorned in crystal fringe, feathers, and beading. Neutral tones like black, gold, and taupe highlighted intricate details, while sharp padded shoulders, geometric blazers, and sparkling outfits reminiscent of disco balls stood out. Tailoring included harem-style pants and tops with Pierrot-like ruffles. Black Tahitian pearls were a key element, appearing on sheer black trousers, silk tie-up jackets, and cascading down silver bodices into black velvet pencil skirts. Structural tops speckled with pearls flowed into black sequin skirts, and high-neck maxi dresses woven with vivid threads added ballroom elegance. Velvet gowns, asymmetrically cut and adorned with pearl accents, were designed for red-carpet moments. The shoes complemented the outfits with pointy ballerina pumps and high heels in white, silver, black, and rose gold colors.

Wednesday the 26th 

Balenciaga

Balenciaga’s latest collection was a bold showcase of creativity and innovation, featuring eccentric headwear, profile silhouettes, and unconventional fabrics. The collection included striking pieces like a fishtail gown resembling melted plastic, oversized silhouettes crafted with precision, and stilettos sharp enough to cook with. Intricate butterfly veils, created through hours of hand embroidery, added a delicate touch, while shirt-hats coated in resin for a wet look broke fashion norms. Signature oversized cocoon shapes, voluminous jackets, and oversized hats. A standout dress, made from 47 meters of black nylon and crafted in just 30 minutes, showcased Demna’s artistic approach. The collection also featured cutting-edge materials like recycled fabric, foil, hair, and faux fur. A cobalt blue jacket made from wig material, while other standout pieces included a hand-sewn T-shirt encased in resin and a meticulously hand-embroidered butterfly mask added to the innovative spirit of the collection.

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf’s Fall 2024 Haute Couture collection embraces wearable art with boxy, angular shapes that redefine the body through sharp, unconventional lines. The designs feature extreme shapewear elements like triangular necklines, circular skirts, spherical bodices, and ultra-structured boxy blazers, taking shoulder pads to a new level. The collection also incorporates playful prints and patterns, mixing colorful polka dots, plaids, and florals, often paired with ruffled collars, polka dot tights, and bows. Models’ hair was styled in structured waves, emphasizing the focus on form. The show opened with a striking satin blazer coat in pastel hues, with three-dimensional lapels and shoulders jutting out like geometric shapes. A standout mint-green dress featured elevated shoulders that boxed in the models’ chins, while contrast and layering throughout the collection evoked the feel of patterned shapes emerging from molds, like half-wrapped presents.

Thursday the 27th 

Robert Wun

Robert Wun’s 10th-anniversary collection, titled “Time,” beautifully reflected themes of life, time, and the fleeting nature of beauty. The show began with a striking black gown with a crystal-embroidered veil symbolizing winter and reflection. A white shredded coat with butterfly appliqués suggested hope rising from decay. Standout pieces included an elegant emerald green mermaid dress and a whimsical black mermaid gown embroidered with pink cherry blossoms, paired with a matching umbrella to symbolize spring. The collection also featured burnt hems on a vibrant yellow outfit, representing the inevitable passage of time.
The final four looks of the show were the most powerful, symbolizing a gradual stripping away of both the physical body and the spirit. A blood-red dress covered in sharp beads represented flesh, while a tight black jumpsuit with a half-skeleton mannequin hanging from it symbolized bones. The show ended with a stunning finale—a model walked down the runway in a flowing gown adorned with multicolored crystals. Under the lights, the crystals sparkled, creating a magical effect that left the audience in awe. This final piece symbolized the soul’s return to the universe, bringing a sense of peace and beauty to the theme of mortality.

ArdAzAei

The ArdAzAei Couture 2024-2025 collection masterfully blends science, geometry, and beauty, showcasing dresses made of degrade-printed silk organza and satin shaped into petal-like forms that wrap around skirts, sleeves, and flowing trains. Accentuated with crystals, these garments emphasize fluid motion and elegance. The collection’s standout evening gowns and cocktail dresses play with geometric shapes, featuring intricately folded fabrics that create spirals and hidden dimensions. Innovative techniques, such as layered bead embroidery, add a dazzling effect, while ArdAzAei’s signature tailoring takes on a modern twist with corset-style dresses, deep necklines, and a futuristic high-collared suit made from organic silk. The runway show, inspired by the petals of a Persian rose, highlighted Ardakani’s love for geometry and the universe, with 3D-printed emblems and meticulous craftsmanship making the collection both visually stunning and conceptually profound. This collection left a lasting impact on the world of haute couture, blending timeless elegance with cutting-edge design.

Prome Jahan

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