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London Fashion Week FW24

Masha Popova

Masha Popova’s fall collection burst onto the runway with a vibrant explosion of colors, channeling the nostalgic Y2K era. Each ensemble boasted a unique print, with mock animal prints, setting the stage for a daring and eclectic display. The show opened with an antique blue velvet dress featuring full sleeves and a golden star collar accentuated by a dangling golden ball and she carried a sizable golden orb. Following was a short green velvet frock with a hoodie and voluminous bell-bottom sleeves. A washed-out greenish long coat with zipper detailing paired elegantly with skinny denim pants, adorned with a striking golden star-shaped waist chain. A standout was a red sheer bikini top paired boldly with straight-leg pants, adorned with fancy belts boasting golden stars, achieving sheer perfection. The collection flaunted innovative pairings: a one-shoulder t-shirt with a buckled short skirt, t-shirt with jeans layered under a long skirt, an asymmetrical flowy pink skirt, and long bell-bottom or straight-leg pants with long-neck shirts. Bralettes stole the spotlight when matched with bomber jackets. Throughout the collection, a sprinkling of gold dust accessorized each outfit, adding a touch of luxury and glamour. Faux fur footwear made a statement, particularly when paired with long socks, offering a bold yet cozy finishing touch to the ensemble.

Sinéad O’Dwyer

Sinéad O’Dwyer’s AW24 collection gives office outfits a bold and daring makeover. Most of the models were disabled or in wheelchairs, making the show beautifully inclusive. The collection features oversized button-down shirts made from fancy cotton and sleek satin in black and champagne colors. These shirts have unique details like built-in bust support and stretchy, leotard-like structures to keep them in place. There are also thick, wide-legged trousers with big side pleats, stylish boleros, and waistcoats made from leftover khaki wool. Overcoats crafted from black denim and sturdy cotton come with neat seams that keep their shape, no matter the size. Sinéad’s collection also includes short culottes with cute ruffles, jumpsuits with sexy criss-cross ties, and cool knitted pieces. Intricate body harnesses inspired by shibari, a type of Japanese rope bondage, add an edgy touch. A new addition to her line is a shibari-style leotard and mini skirt. The collection also features sporty tank tops with wavy knitted stripes.

HUISHAN ZHANG

At the London F/W 2024 fashion week, the designer simplified the shapes, focusing on sleek silhouettes inspired by Sicily’s summer heat and old Hollywood glamour. The color palette included bold red, oxblood, and silvery gray. Black tulle added movement to curvy satin slip dresses in Champagne shades. A tailored black suit came with a swingy skirt and a cropped jacket that revealed the torso. Sheer, bejeweled dresses brought a dash of southern Italian glamour, especially when paired with faux fur jackets or hip-length leather coats. Sharp wool suits were given a softer touch with waist ties and tulle embroidery. The collection also featured a leather trench coat and a corseted jacket, blending masculine and feminine styles. Zhang’s artistic flair was evident in the embroidered tweed and flocked polka dots. Old Hollywood’s influence was seen in more modest styles, including a long, slim belted overcoat and a silvery gray dress with an oversized bow wrapped around the shoulders like a cloud.

Tolu Coker

Day two of London Fashion Week celebrated diversity and inclusivity, with designers embracing a wide spectrum of cultures, identities, and perspectives. Emerging talents and established names alike showcased collections that reflected the richness of human experience and the beauty of individuality. One of the standout presentations came from Nigerian-born designer Tolu Coker, whose boundary-pushing designs celebrated her African heritage with a contemporary twist. Bold prints, vibrant colors, and innovative silhouettes graced the runway, capturing the essence of modern Africa and challenging conventional notions of beauty and style.

SRVC

At SRVC FW24, the Fall Winter 2024 collection showcased corporate attire transformed into bold and provocative silhouettes, all set against the backdrop of classic London buses. The collection featured wool two-piece sets with jackets that had cinched waists, strong shoulders, and off-center buttons. Unique details included cuffs mimicking shoulder shapes and trouser hems with shirt collar-inspired elements. A standout piece was a waist-snatching wool coat, inverted with a lapel at the hem and a back detail to neatly tuck in hair. The brand continued to subvert the commuter’s uniform with versatile knitwear separates. Ultra-soft cashwool tops and skirts were designed to be worn inverted, with high necklines doubling as masks and crew neck collar accents at the skirt hems. Adjustable buckles on the skirts allowed for customizable lengths. Knitted denim was turned into backless maxi dresses with dramatic sleeves and provocative thigh slits. Poplin was cleverly cut into adaptable button-up dresses and distinctive shirts, featuring chest cut-outs and statement sleeves with a permanently rolled-up look.

Molly Goddard

The collection showcased ingeniously engineered designs using taffeta, tulle, and knit. Molly Goddard embraced a vibrant palette of red, orange, magenta, and pink to create playful, elegant textures. Bulbous layers of ruffled tulle added dynamic movement. A standout outfit featured a gray dress with rose embroidery, a low-rise brown belt above a puffed bubble skirt, and black pants with rose-embroidered knees. Signature taffeta dresses and tops were paired with a tulle skirt, an oversized knit covered in rosettes, and a pastel pink long-sleeve t-shirt. Goddard reimagined cowboy boots into rounded Mary Jane ballet flats and tall flat boots in soft shades of red, pink, and yellow. Piped, floral-decorated faux Western shirts paired with decorated denim completed the whimsical collection.

Erdem

The show at the British Museum opened with a striking pea green opera coat featuring an exaggerated collar. Models wore wigs with visible tape, dressed in luxurious silk gowns and pajamas. Floral prints appeared on brooches that adorned dresses and coats, adding a delicate touch. One standout piece was a cocktail dress in ruby red satin, with a draped scarf neckline and a large bow, embellished with broken crystals. The collection showcased tiny-waisted dresses, draped scarf necklines, and swing coats, all reflecting mid-century modern elegance. Glamorous marabou feathers added a whimsical touch to the designs. Exquisite feather details and embellished lace further highlighted the collection’s opulence.

Simone Rocha

The designs included puffed gowns with tulle trimmings and corsets, tracksuits, and fur coats with oversized ribbons. Conventional dresses in crushed golden velvet, pale pink brocade, and bow-adorned chocolate taffeta had a playful twist. Costume-like gowns were paired with plush animal handbags, while rhinestone-encrusted hoods adorned collared knitwear. The menswear featured bold black-toned outfits, matching the collection’s extravagance. Corsetry was a key theme, integrated into tie-detail nylon parkas, rompers, and sheer jackets. Faux-fur accents appeared on hips, shoes, earpieces, and hems of translucent dresses. Polo shirts and fine-knit tops transitioned into tulle or corsetry, often decorated with metallic flowers. Models wore thick-soled oxfords and embellished Crocs, including short gumboot styles. A long black dress featured gleaming eyelets, while a red lurex-knit pencil skirt was paired with a matching hoodie.

LABRUM

Labrum’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection embraced a travel theme, journeying through solemn browns, earthy greens, and shining yellows with rich attire and flight-inspired graphics.The collection opened with glossy silk fabrics featuring LABRUM-branded passports and travel documents. Asymmetrical trench coats and blazers sported metallic LABRUM pins, some collarless with crossed finishes. Airline tickets were sewn into key looks, paired with letter sacks and oversized flag backpacks. Light brown suits showcased travel document piping, while passports appeared on silk-like gowns, double-breasted shirts, and a navy overcoat. Vibrant green jackets included traditional and cropped military styles. Multicolored plane tickets formed patchwork jackets and trousers, and an oversized box-like backpack draped in a multinational flag stood out. Luggage was prominent, with roomy leather shoulder bags, straw-filled baskets, and a collaborative adidas carryall. Models wore sleek black Samba sneakers, continuing the Three Stripes collaboration.

Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead’s latest collection, staged in Covent Garden, opened with her signature pieces: a two-piece suit, a full-skirted dress, and a jacquard silk coat. The collection then ventured into new styles, featuring a strapless butterscotch yellow dress layered with sheer organza and playful denim pieces inspired by workwear. Models showcased a variety of looks, including flower-embellished crinkly minidresses with a ’60s vibe, leotard tops paired with long ballerina skirts, and oversized coats edged with fur. Bookish outfits combined boyish V-neck sweaters and collared shirts with sparkly, flower-embellished skirts and sheer black knee-socks. The collection featured striking color combinations like brown, blue, and mustard, as well as black, bright pink, and camel. Suits and tailored dresses were styled with pillbox hats. Notable pieces included a dark red oxblood leather coat and a standout burgundy sequin gown. Floral’s appeared in 3D on evening gowns and miniskirts, contrasting with splay-collared shirts and knits.

JW Anderson

Models showcased a variety of styles, including revamped athletic uniforms, braided yarn costumes, and layered undergarments with petite bows creating optical illusions. The collection featured fuzzy dresses cinched at the waist, velour tanks and shorts, strong-shouldered coats, knotted knitwear, belted tops, and structural motorcycle jackets, all exuding a rebellious spirit. The collection included fisherman rib knit garments, draped light dresses with decorative tassels, oversized British coats, and deep V-neck sweaters with floral applications and long ribbons. Cozy fabrics dominated, resulting in puffy cardigans, oversized knitwear, and jumper dresses. Tassels added playful texture to high heels and loafers, while excessive padding and ruched ribbons brought vibrancy to simple outfits. Oversized tweed jackets and chunky cable-knit sweaters contrasted with ultra-luxe shearling boots and hourglass minidresses with sweatshirt collars, creating a playful tension between comfort and sophistication. The collection balanced modern and vintage styles, with models wearing curly grey bobs and slicked-back pixie cuts paired with layered undergarments, cozy knits, and oversized overcoats.

Burberry

Lee’s FW24 collection highlighted a variety of coat styles, including puffed, trimmed fur, leather, and nylon designs. The collection featured new takes on the Burberry check in musty browns, dim-lit yellows, and eccentric reds. Signature elements like tartan checks and oversized bags stood out. The color palette was dominated by olive greens, earthy browns, khaki, red, and yellow. Notable pieces included an olive V-neck sweater with a pleated maxi skirt and a brown sweater dress with thick fringes. Coats were a key focus, with rugged parkas, duffels, field jackets, crumpled trench coats, and high-collared jackets. Accessories such as scarves, umbrellas, and lug-soled boots added a practical touch. Textures like fuzzy scarves, fur trims, and pleats added playfulness to the collection. Highlights included shearling duffle coats, teddy-bear bomber jackets, leather field coats with oversized funnel necks, and parkas with detachable plaid linings. Ready-to-wear items featured pleated maxi kilts, rollneck knitted dresses with chunky fringes, blanket-inspired wrap dresses, and a draped gold velvet dress. Men’s pieces included heavy stripe suits, luxe loungewear, silk shirts, and zippered trousers. The collection was finished with functional bags, sturdy Wellingtons, biker boots, and sculptural feather bracelets.

Prome Jahan

February 21, 2024

Burberry, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Fall / Winter, HUISHAN ZHANG, JW Anderson, LABRUM, London, Masha Popova, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Sinéad O’Dwyer, SRVC

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