Paris Fashion Week FW24

IFM Master of Arts

Paris Fashion Week 2024 commenced with a dynamic presentation at the prestigious Institut français de la mode, where 27 budding designers from 13 diverse backgrounds unveiled their creations. Ranging from historical to futuristic designs, each designer brought their unique flair to the event.

Among the standout pieces was an unconventional design featuring oversized jumpers adorned with leather offcuts resembling fallen leaves, suits featuring intricate tree ring prints, and a stylish coat accentuated with a chunky coiled belt.

Moreover, the catwalk celebrated creativity and self-expression, showcasing contemporary spins on the timeless cowboy look, featuring hats, cyberpunk boots, and fringe, alongside elegant ensembles exuding feminine charm with elaborate lace, sheer textures, and flowing ruffles.

Christian Dior

The Paris Fall Winter 2024 collection reimagines Dior’s traditional values while honoring the vibrant spirit of the inauguration of the Miss Dior boutique in Paris. It embraces the elegance found in both design and materials. Emphasizing the brand’s identity, the iconic Miss Dior logo makes a bold reappearance, serving as a vibrant signature amidst a captivating color palette of blues, reds, and browns.

The collection showcases a stunning array of garments meticulously fashioned from luxurious double cashmere and gabardine. Featuring contemporary, above-the-knee cuts, the collection includes a variety of dresses, such as double-face cashmere miniskirt sets with matching sleeveless tops, black turtlenecks, swinging gold pendant necklaces, relaxed fit jackets and outerwear, loose trousers and comfortable low block-heeled boots and shoes for effortless walking.

Saint Laurent

Celebrating the allure and seductive power of the femme fatale, Saint Lauren collection reintroduces this concept in transparent and shimmering variations, accentuating the inherent beauty of the female form.

The designer, Anthony Vaccarello delivered a collection of impeccably tailored silhouettes, featuring bow-neck blouses, pencil skirts, and draped dresses with sheer elements. The color palettes were taupe, caramel, olive, chocolate brown, vermillion, and black. Accessories included thin belts, wedge sandals, and marabou jackets. Practical jumpsuits and safari jackets in neutral tones were complemented by leather gloves and aviator sunglasses. Vaccarello emphasized simplicity with cinched waists and high heels, showcasing classic Saint Laurent silhouettes like the caftan-style dress. High-shine jewelry added glamour, while sheer tank tops contrasted with khaki materials for a sultry aesthetic.

Benjamin Benmoyal

Benmoyal embarked on a journey fueled by his profound passion for weaving, destined to captivate hearts and minds alike. With voluminous silhouettes and daring geometric patterns, his signature aesthetic commanded attention, drawing eyes to the runway like moths to a flame. Among the creations, oversized round headpieces emerged as celestial crowns, bedecked with radiant threads that danced in the light, infusing the collection with enchantment. In a stroke of ingenuity, Benmoyal repurposed audio and video cassettes to craft a groundbreaking snakeskin-like fabric, evoking nostalgia for musical tapestries of yesteryears.

Courrèges

In the Courrèges fashion show’24, Di Felice found inspiration in the captivating mystique of fetish culture and André Courrèges’ iconic ’60s “cosmonauts”. 

The models graced the runway, hands tucked into the single front pocket of slim flared pants and skirts grazing below the knee. Trench Coats with high funnel necks hinted at secretive encounters, while loose straps teasingly slid off shoulders and trailed from hems, adding an air of intrigue and allure to the looks. Brief bra tops, reminiscent of censorship strips, contrasted sharply with luxurious fabrics like sleek black leather and lavish faux fur, crafting a provocative yet refined look.

Dries Van Noten

On Dries Van Noten’s runway, one consistent element was the long fringy bangs nearly veiling the models’ eyes. The collection emerged as a kaleidoscope of colors,  including electric blue, kissing pink, and muddy brown, complemented by textures ranging from shaggy fur-like mohairs to gleaming metallics.

Key pieces included a double-breasted camel coat, knitted mohair evening coat, satin polyester trench coat, and faux fur jackets. Accessories like wooly mop bags and leather bags added further flair. Models flaunted zip-up hoodies with one sleeve draped off around the neck like a scarf, and unexpected pairings like fully embroidered jackets over men’s shirts added an element of surprise. Fabrics ranged from metallic jacquards to sheer Lycra, creating a rich and textured aesthetic.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens’ runway presented a collection evoking an otherworldly sense of protection and eerie allure. Models, wearing black sclera lenses, exuded a haunting presence reminiscent of survivors from a distant planet.

Throughout the collection, a strong emphasis on protection was evident, with cozy outfits crafted from recycled wool, alpaca, and cashmere, and models covered from head to toe in hoods, gloves, and tall inflatable rubber boots.  Knitwear was ubiquitous, featuring ponchos, turtleneck bodysuits, and space-traveler jumpsuits in soft wool. 

Some unique pieces were wide shoulders almost touching the ears, puffer vests wrapped around bodies like protective shells, shaggy mohair coats with shearling patches on shoulders, long hooded capes and voluminous scarves, a pink leather jacket resembling fallen angel wings. Rick Owens also presented captivating cage dresses adorned with thick sequin-covered strips that wrap around the body like snakes.

Off-White

At the Off-White fashion show, a runway resembling a colossal Ludo board was adorned with crystal dice, creating a striking visual spectacle. Ibrahim tweaked Off-White’s DNA, focusing on the quadruple arrow logo, featured on baseball jackets and tote bags, enhancing brand identity. He also collaborated with Wilson to create basketball-holder bags and reimagined basketballs into padded “Baller” sneakers, adding a sporty element to the collection.

The collection showcased a vibrant and playful aesthetic, with lime faux fur and whimsical motifs such as stars, butterflies, and dice adding a lively touch to dresses. Key pieces included pink cardigans, lilac denim pants, and numerous lime-colored ensembles. Among the standout looks were those featuring faux furry Klondike hats, star-covered monogram gangster pants paired with matching handbags, and a baseball jacket adorned with two white dice.

Givenchy

Givenchy’s newest collection draws inspiration from the later works of Hubert de Givenchy, aiming to revive Audrey Hepburn’s classic style by blending past and present elements. The color palette primarily consists of black, gray, white, red, and deep blue.

The collection encompasses popular trends such as sheer fabrics, cocoon coats, faux fur, corsets, oversized jackets, sequins, knits, and an abundance of black. The clothes played with shapes and lines, including asymmetrical miniskirts, high-low hemlines with floor-sweeping trains, and unique roll necklines and panel-shaped skirts. Notable pieces include tailored items like structured midi coats, strong-shouldered blazers, jet black leather pieces, and a reimagined Givenchy trench coat.

Jewelry is a highlight, boasting bold designs with lacquer and crystals. Models accessorized with bows in their hair and on opera gloves, while bangles were worn in pairs and necklaces adorned turtlenecks.

Loewe

Irish designer Jonathan Anderson set the tone for the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week with his distinctive designs. Inspired by vintage fabric and wallpaper adorned with vibrant flowers, as well as paintings of radishes, buttercups, and leaves, his collection showcased a fusion of nostalgia and innovation. Distinctively, dresses had holes cut out and were cinched with oversized buckles, complemented by colorful floral patterns, while oversized parachute pants were paired with classic blazers for a touch of old-world charm. A standout detail was a silvered collar adorning a gray cashmere overcoat, cleverly crafted from carved wood to mimic fur. 

Models sported blue-tinted pixie cuts, adding a modern edge to the ensemble, which included metal cups worn around high-waisted trousers and faded tartan prints. A model accessorized with a bundle of purple-tipped asparagus, intricately crafted from beadwork to resemble caviar texture, which was also featured on tracksuits, boots, trousers, and bags. This intricate beadwork was also featured on an A-line dress adorned with a charming dog design on the front.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake’s Fall 2024 collection celebrates simplicity and the timeless elegance of minimalism, with its main highlight being the captivating color palette. The collection presents a richly textured tapestry of colors, featuring vibrant hues such as fuchsia, pollen yellow, royal blue, and mint green.

Sculptural forms, achieved by wrapping a single piece of cloth around the torso, are a key focus of the collection, with a notable feature being a long coat and poncho adorned with wildflower prints. The garments, crafted from a blend of washi and wool, gracefully cascade over diverse forms, accentuating intricate folds, twists, and asymmetrical shapes. Interestingly, the strikingly colored draped pleats subtly evoke the magnificent Bene Gesserit costumes from the movie Dune.

Victoria Beckham

At Victoria Beckham’s fashion show, the models showcased a range of striking looks. The models wore classic tailored blazers that hung gracefully from the neck, revealing their completely backless design. The trousers, reaching the floor, boasted a relaxed fit with a low crotch. Biker jackets and trench coats made a statement with their high collars, reminiscent of dog cone collars, flipped up for added drama.

A standout feature of the collection was the fluid jersey dresses, cinched at the waist with wire-hanger brooches, creating a sleek and defined silhouette. Another dress stood out with a chain print brought to life by delicate metal chains cascading from the skirt and bustier. Additionally, mini dresses were crafted with padded wire frames, resulting in bold and sculptural three-dimensional shapes.

Noir Kei Ninomiya

Japanese designer Kei Ninomiya surprised everyone with a collection full of vibrant and cheerful creations, evoking a childhood sense of wonder. 

Vibrant rubber band dresses resembling cocoons and girly frocks crafted from crumpled tulle in light pink, blue, green and orange stole the spotlight. Some dresses featured cages adorned with black flowers, seamlessly transitioning into layers of pink silk and tulle. Additionally, there were green quilted dresses and tartan vests, complemented by a fresh collaboration with Reebok showcasing plastic floral patterns on their sneakers. Finally, the last outfit looked like a person surrounded by flower shaped bugs.

Junya Watanabe

At the unveiling of Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, sculptural fashion stole the spotlight, featuring striking geometric silhouettes.

Models rocked funky hairstyles and simple makeup, strutting down the runway in dresses, coats and capes adorned with abstract shapes and patterns, with tangled knots and layered curves. Some even wore big, stiff shapes like black vinyl triangles and other 3D shapes around their necks. There were also some outfits with big, flexible cages or cool geometric sculptures.

The clothes had oversized shoulders and puffy sleeves, paired with tight biker shorts for a cool look.  Classic motorcycle jackets got a modern makeover with sharp angles and longer backs, while denim outfits were cinched at the waist for a flattering shape. A model wore a long trench coat-like dress wrapped with black leather unevenly around her body, with gaps in between. One standout piece was a patchwork denim and black vinyl skirt paired with a furry top. Another eye-catching loo

Hermès

At Hermès, the sleek, black runway was accented with long metal grates, where artificial rain added to the unique ambiance as models strutted around. Nadège Vanhee, Hermès’ designer, showcased a fall collection of luxurious leather jackets and coats, including jumpsuits and blazers inspired by saddles and motorbiking gear.

Among them were leather jackets with long, fine fringe, one in off-white and the other in dark brown. The leather jumpsuits, influenced by biker coveralls, were worn beneath brown leather raincoats with belts. Many outfits were snugly fitted and daring, coming in bright red, dark burgundy, pastel yellow, pastel olive green, black, and brown.

Additionally, moto jackets, short bombers, were adorned with diamond-shaped studs, which also embellished slim skirts, sexy ribbed knits, including a crop top, and leather pencil skirts with side or middle openings adorned with small silver studs along the edges. The collection also included a mix of footwear, pairing pointy-toe cowboy boots with cropped and flared stretch leather pants, and flat knee-high moto boots with side zips with skirts and dresses.

Balenciaga

The Balenciaga runway backdrop featured digital screens projecting landscapes, setting a dynamic backdrop for the fashion showcase. The collection itself was a mix of unconventional pairings: from fancy animal-print gowns and oversized faux fur coats to long dresses crafted from hoodies and trench coats worn like aprons. Denim pants, dustbags, and backpacks were repurposed into tops and dresses. 

Among the standout pieces was a floor-length gown constructed entirely from bras.

A nod to the Y2K trend was evident in the layering of tank tops and camis over various long and short-sleeved shirts. The collection also featured pieces such as a t-shirt adorned with the Planet Earth logo paired with jogger pants, as well as hoodies and knitwear featuring the Ebay logo.

Accessories took center stage at the show, with signature sunglasses transformed into headgear resembling black and white virtual reality headsets. The beanies were so long they covered the models nose, and bracelets featured phone holders attached to them.

DURAN LANTINK

Duran Lantink utilized premium materials such as leather, sheepskin, lycra, wool, and velvet in their creations. They repurposed puffer jackets into coordinated sets sourced from vintage ski coats, while crafting shearling jackets and boots from reclaimed sheepskin. Additionally, they introduced contemporary designs like a leather bomber jacket paired with padded shorts and sharp suits featuring clean lines, reminiscent of the bold shoulder trend from the 80s. 

Standout pieces included a padded cozy wine-red sweater dress and a Christmas-themed knitted jumper transformed into a padded vest. Additionally, a snowsuit with exaggerated broad shoulders, cinched at the waist, and leather bombers featuring broad shoulders and tiny hot pants added to the collection’s unique style.

Valentino

In the Valentino Women FW24 RTW collection, black shines as the star, with delicate chiffon layers, luxurious velvets, and sleek crepe fabrics beautifully adorned with chic elements like rose-shaped ribbons, ruffles, and lace.

The collection comprises various standout pieces, including shiny leather jackets and skirts adorned with fringes, as well as crocodile leather printed jackets and skirts. Blurred transparent blouses and sheer dresses featuring black cut-out flowers add a touch of delicacy, while loose wrap shirts and voluminous tulle skirts contribute to the overall aesthetic. Additionally, oversized suit jackets are paired with sheer chiffon shirts, while sharp-shouldered tunic dresses contrast with flowy chiffon blouses and ruffles on sheer blouses. The ensemble is completed with A-line skirts paired with chunky biker boots, while evening gowns maintain a chic appearance, focusing on how the pieces look in motion.

Mugler

Casey Cadwallader’s creative direction shines through in the Mugler Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The collection showcases a variety of luxurious textures, including velvet, denim, silk chiffon, satin, and faux fur, in bold shades such as black, scarlet, lemon and wine red.

Classic Mugler features like pointed collars and metallic accents on the hips are reinterpreted for a contemporary edge. Tailoring in wool and jacquard fabrics adds sophistication to the collection’s asymmetrical cuts, while draped dresses and sheer fabrics bring fluidity to the silhouettes. Accessories such as statement earrings and gloves, innovative handbag designs, and eye-catching boots and pumps further enhance the bold aesthetic.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney’s Fall 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week embraces voluminous, cozy silhouettes reminiscent of fur coats, all crafted with eco-friendly materials like plant-based leather. Models walked the runway in a glass-enclosed space, blurring indoor and outdoor boundaries. The collection showcased vibrant hues such as bright red, blue, brown, black, white, dusty pink, and gray. 

The collection offers a diverse range of garments, from oversized double-breasted suits with broad shoulder padding to trench coats in crocodile-effect materials and oversized knitted coats. The collection also includes dramatic gowns with intricate embellishments, shimmering cocktail dresses, and patchwork denim. Wool tweed fabrics are used to create aviator jackets and trench coats adorned with diamond-shaped panels. Standout pieces this season include knitwear items featuring hand-knitted ropes crafted into long scarves and high-neck dresses made from regenerated cashmere. Additionally, the collection features shiny sequins and cowboy-style tassels, along with thick yarn dresses, jeweled tops. These pieces are complemented by footwear options like loafers and pointed high heels.

Coperni

Coperni’s FW24 presentation unfolded in a large, all-black studio space, creating a stark contrast with the predominantly pitch-black room. The collection showcased a series of standout pieces: white transparent organza garments, including skirts, dresses, and bodysuits, paired with cut-out star-shaped stilettos. Additionally, the collection featured long oversized fake fur coats dipped in blue and green latex paint, exaggerated low-waisted pants and skirts with attached fake fur, and cable knit wool jumpers sliced up and worn with white poplin shirt bodysuits. Other notable items included silver foiled dresses and skirts adorned with 18-carat white gold leaves, draped knot pieces in embroidered sequins jersey with extra-long sleeves, and multi-shade deadstock patchwork printed cow leather blazers. The runaway also included UFO-shaped pleated taffeta, black and ivory jersey dresses with levitating fake fur rings. One standout accessory was the “99% air and 1% glass” handbag, distinguished by its translucence and pale bluish hue, representing the lightest solid on Earth.

Chanel

Virginie Viard’s collection for Chanel showcased a range of cozy wool and bouncy tweeds, including long tweed overcoats, chunky knitted skirts, cable-knit sweaters, and stylish shearling jackets. The lineup also featured leather-textured faded denim and transparent ruffled gowns printed with vibrant graphics of film and cinema tickets. A standout element was the oversized sun hats adorned with decorative hat pins.

The skirts in the collection flared slightly below the knee or to mid-calf, while the trousers were either long or cropped above the ankle. The knitwear was chic and smart, offering glittery options for evenings or matching sets.

Most outfits were paired with knee boots. The classic Chanel bag made appearances, often matching the coats rather than the shoes, and belts were a common accessory, some narrow with a bow buckle. 

Miu Miu

The Miu Miu collection for FW24 season featured long double-breasted coats in rich shades like chocolate brown, orange, navy blue, and black. There were knit cardigans, scrunched-up coat sleeves paired with gloves, and stylish skirt suits and dresses. The skirts stood out with vibrant colors and pockets, adorned with big flowers in bold combinations like white with purple, mint greens and mustard yellow with pink, grey with chocolate brown. Peacoats were adorned with silver metal flowers, while bomber jackets were matched with bulky skirts for a casual look. Some models sported black bodycon dresses with croc-textured gloves, flat Mary Janes, and black shades, evoking an Audrey Hepburn aesthetic.

Accessories included delicate pearl necklaces, rectangular sunglasses, and oversized chunky gloves. Models carried top-handle bags in their palms or held them into the crooks of their elbows. The footwear ranged from slippers and sturdy loafers to pointy low heels, adding a touch of versatility to the ensemble.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s Paris Fashion Week 2024 showcased a captivating collection that combined elegance with modernity. The colors ranged from bold and vibrant hues like powder blue and golden to more classic shades such as black, off-white, and white. 

The collection featured a variety of jackets including high-neck collar, raincoat, and bomber styles, paired with gloves adorned with tassel fringes in various colors. Sequin-embroidered transparent dresses shimmered alongside oversized furry paw mittens in black, powder blue, off-white, or white. Metallic-embroidered jackets and trousers added a touch of glamour, while shimmery golden knee-length skirts and bralettes exuded elegance. 

Additionally, the box-shaped short dresses with LV designs likely featured the iconic Louis Vuitton monogram or logo incorporated into the design. Short coats embellished with exquisite jewels, 3D embroidery, and vibrant colors were paired with colorful leather skirts. Biker jackets were styled with bubble skirts, while oversized furry coats and scarves were matched with asymmetrical skirts. Sleek ruffled dresses with long tails on both sides completed the ensemble, accessorized with squared-toe leather boots and signature Louis Vuitton bags in trunk and round shapes.